Donna DeCourcy wrote me today
“I look forward to your progress on pant fitting. Currently, I make all my own clothes and am frustrated by pants. I enjoy your blog immensely and finally changed my password and made the roundabout route to get back to finally making and leaving a comment!”
I answered her:
- jmn Donna, pants fitting and making is difficult and frustrating because you’re working from a flat piece of paper and you’re trying to create a garment that is curvy in a number of different locations that are different on every body, and your body changes constantly!
- You can’t count on a pattern you got to work once to work with a different fabric that has a different weight or a different amount of give (stretch). You can’t know for sure a pattern you made six months ago will fit you today! Unlike a top or a dress or a skirt which fits more loosely, pants (particularly today’s styles) fit closely, so there’s not much forgiveness in fitting – they fit and are comfortable, or they’re not and you start over again.
- I’ve been chasing patterns and ideas for fitting pants for at least 30 years! At the moment, the closest I’ve come to getting a pattern to work is “Top Down, Centre Out” which fits the waistband first, then drapes the pants pieces from that, making the adjustments in the toile/musin as you’re making the pants.
- That’s why I just make “wearable muslins” (prepared to discard the project) because as far as I’m concerned each new pair of pants (from the same pattern) is still a work in progress, never a sure thing.
I added another comment later:
- jmn I meant to include a link to “Top Down/Centre Out”
https://thecrookedhem.net/2022/04/25/top-down-center-out-with-the-eve-trousers/
in case you overlooked it. This article is a great synopsis of Ruth Collins’ (the originator of the “Top Down/Centre Out”) technique: https://www.instagram.com/ithacamaven/?hl=en
There’s one more great article from Jenny Rushmore: https://blog.cashmerette.com/2022/10/how-to-sew-pants-that-fit.html Also straightforward. - Keep at it. You’ll make progress and get comfortable pants most of the time!

This pair of pants is a Monpei: Here’s how I made them: https://jmncreativeendeavours.ca/2021/07/25/the-japanese-monpei/
You might want to give this idea a try. It’s surprising how well they hang on me! I’m about to make another pair from some Japanese katagami fabric I’ve had for a couple of years.