San Francisco

San Francisco 5

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Time disappears when you’re deeply engaged in something. Here it is 5:15pm Thursday afternoon. Where have the last two days gone?

I’ve finished a second pair of pants – you ask about the first? I finished those yesterday morning. Sandra suggested a small modification to the front of the pants so instead of starting on the shirt (I’ve made adjustments to refine the fit of that pattern as well) I thought I should do the second pair of pants to see how they’d turn out.

Here they are: the front:

Pants 2 -Front

 

And the back:

Pants 2 – Back

This is the closest I’ve come to a comfortable well fitting pair of pants. The twill I’ve made these in has a wee bit of give but it’s pretty stiff so some pull lines are inevitable. But in a more stretchy or drapey fabric they’ll be great.

And yesterday (that was Wednesday) we sewed in the morning and went fabric shopping in the afternoon – visited a couple of great fabric shops where I couldn’t resist picking up fabrics for garments as well as a few small pieces of quilting cotton.

Fabric Shopping

 

There’s a name for it: pareidolia – seeing faces in inanimate objects! There are faces everywhere – in the hotel bathroom:

Face #1


On the door to the room:

Face #2


Wouldn’t you call that a sad face?

Anyway, I tidied up my sewing station after I finished my white pants. Tomorrow I’ll have time to cut out my shirt before we have to pack up and vacate the sewing room.

I’m here in San Francisco till very early Saturday morning so I’ll schmooze a bit Friday afternoon. The week has flown by astonishingly fast.

San Francisco 4

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We hit the pavement running! It started last evening at 7:00 with our setting up – by the end of the evening everybody had a project underway.

Contemplating The Pattern Layout

This morning the cutting, pressing, sewing began in earnest.

Hard At Work

The Power Sewing Retreat with Sandra Betzina is all about fitting and each and every one of the ten women here has significant garment fitting issues. To learn to rectify them, we’re slashing patterns and rebuilding them, so that once cut out and stitched, whatever garment someone is making will hang correctly, not be too roomy (unless that’s the style of the garment), flattering.

Discussing Fit

Sandra has a lifetime of experience designing for Vogue Patterns, and she’s been showing women how to create well fitting garments for a very long time. Lots can be learned from watching how she works both with a pattern and garments in progress.

Pressing Fabric

I’m working on pants yet again – Sandra suggested I drop the front waist an inch below the test pair I made before coming which would allow the pants front to hang a bit better from my waist.

I adapted my pattern, cut the fabric, and then began assembling the front and back – pockets, fly front all stitched. Tomorrow I’ll sew up inseams, crotch seam, top stitch both, then stitch the outer side seams. I’ll finish be adding the waistband/back yoke facing and then a buttonhole and a button (along with hemming the leg bottom will see the job done – all before noon I hope…

Sharing Suggestions

It’s a highly collaborative group this year. Everybody is interested in helping one another, sharing equipment, discussing fit…

Tomorrow afternoon we’re going fabric shopping. I really must restrain myself because my suitcases were full when I came – not much room for new fabric and notions. I am, though, looking forward to seeing what’s available.

San Francisco 3

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Today, a lovely, if brisk, sunny day on the San Francisco waterfront. Sheila and I decided to visit Fisherman’s Wharf. We hopped on the nearby Powell Street cable car and rode it to the end of the line.

That put us at the national park end of the harbour where we were able to explore the historic tall ships – admission free today.

Historic Tall Ships

The ships are well kept (although not likely seaworthy) – park rangers were available to answer questions. We chose to mosey about on our own rather than take a guided tour. I preferred looking around at my own pace.

Fisherman’s Wharf – Historic Fishing Boats

A collection of period fishing boats were moored on the other side of the pier. Fishing has been an important industry since the founding of the city. San Francisco still has an active fishing fleet which contributes to the local economy. (Notice Alcatraz in the background – you’ll see it if you click on the above photo.)

Golden Gate Bridge

We had a great view of the Golden Gate Bridge from the tall ship decks.  We were also afforded a view of the hardy Sunday morning swimmers who entered the cold bay waters at the Aquarium beach, swam out to the breakwater, along the inner side to the open sea end, then back again. We could identify the various clubs by the color of their bathing caps and their swimming gear (one group were wearing wetsuits – smart people!).

Sea Lions Basking

Seals and Sea Lions were enjoying the day as well. A group of four had taken ownership of the deck of one of the exhibit fishing boats. Quite likely the park rangers will evict them at some point during the day, a ranger informed us, because at 450 lbs each they pose a risk to the boat!

After viewing the ships we walked our way down the waterfront to Pier 39 at the other end of the waterfront but there wasn’t much interesting to see except for a couple of art galleries which we dropped into on our way back. Both were showing the work by contemporary artists in a wide range of media, some of it expensive. Fun to look at.

We caught a cable car back to Powell and Sutter where we got off. The block back to the hotel along Sutter from Powell to Mason is a challenging uphill climb. Along the way we came across this pair of abandoned shoes! Apparently a guy placed them on the sidewalk then went on his way – for the next needy homeless person perhaps.

Shutter Street – Missing Man

The week-long sewing retreat begins this evening. We’ll get set up tonight and be ready to roll in the morning.

Pants, shirts… I’ve got both on my “to do” list.

San Francisco – 2

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The highlight of today’s trek into the Union Square district of downtown SF was our stop at Britex Fabrics. But before I get to that I’ll mention we had a leisurely Saturday breakfast, wandered over to Post Street so Sheila could stop into DSW to peruse the shoes. She did pick up a pair of Bob’s (made by Sketchers) flats. I just shmoozed. 

Second stop, the Apple Store where I bought an “old” style set of Apple earbuds. Sheila got help with several questions she had about her iPhone, then we moved on. 

Third stop: Ice Breaker – they make clothing out of a wonderful merino fabric (a very light wool knit) great to wear both winter and summer! However their women’s styles don’t work for me so although I tried on several different long sleeved T-shirts they all looked awful – I bought nothing (Sheila bought a couple of loose pieces).

Across the street we visited Gumps – the clothing and accessories are quite lovely but buying clothes there is like coals to Newcastle!

Around the corner and back up Geary we stopped at Britex!

Wool Fabrics 1


Wool Fabrics 2

Silk Fabrics $50 -$150 per yard


I bought a length of Liberty print cotton to make a shirt. Sheila also purchased some fabric.

Exhausted, we headed back toward our hotel, stopping for a latish lunch and a well deserved rest. Next is Happy Hour, then a light dinner and we’ve bought theatre tickets to see a play that’s happening in the theatre here at the Marine’s Memorial Club.

Tomorrow, more sightseeing before the sewing group meets early in the evening and our week-long sewing retreat gets underway.

Crazy Day In San Francisco

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The day began early because both Sheila (from Toronto) and I were awake early – just the way it is when you come from so far east. Had a leisurely breakfast then headed out to shop – well window shop mostly. We left the hotel on Sutter Street, turned right at the Mason Street corner, walked a block, turned left onto Geary and walked a block to Union Square. At the square we turned right onto Powell – the Sketchers store our destination but we were still 15 minutes early for store opening so we sauntered further down the street to see what else there was to see. Just as we appoached the UniGlo store at 9:17am the power in all of central SF went out!

We didn’t know that immediately. But the shops didn’t open at 9:30. We wandered the Union Square area some more. Thought maybe we might take a street car to the Fisherman’s Wharf district when a conductor told us everything was closed there, too.

So we slowly walked back to our hotel – the emergency lights were on but the elevators weren’t working. We climbed to the second floor to use a washroom, then I SLOWLY climbed to our seventh floor room, exchanged my wool sweater and turtleneck for a lightweight T-shirt and returned to the second floor. By this time we knew about a large fire somewhere downtown and also knew it would be a while before power would be restored so we relaxed, as others slowly joined us on the mezzanine. 

Although we’d had a solid breakfast, we both started feeling hungry – that’s when we realized it was going to be difficult to find something to eat – all restaurants would be closed! However as luck would have it, the Italian restaurant on the corner of the hotel building was trying to organize sandwiches. So we went in and ate, figuring it might still be a while before we’d get anything else. 

After lunch we moseyed toward Chinatown where most of the shops were “open” – the doors were open with their usual wares displayed on the street – but the rest of the shops were in darkness – cash transactions only.

Gates Of Chinatown

Streets of San Francisco


Just as we were approaching the hotel after spending time in Chinatown the traffic lights came on. Power was back on in the hotel – but no elevators. We waited until one of the elevators would operate on manual mode and one of the staff took us to the 7th floor. It was close to 4:00 pm so we went to “happy hour” in the hotel to relax, then decided to try the streets once again.

We washed our faces, and set off to see if anything had opened – our first stop – the Sketchers store. We spent a lot of time there, finally each choosing one pair of shoes. Then back to UniGlo, and finally back to the hotel, stopping for sushi before calling it a day.

San Francisco Skyline from the top of our hotel

San Francisco 9

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San Francisco fog in the morning

The packing is done – I must have packed more lightly than I thought when I came because I managed to get everything into the two bags, including the fabric I bought! Tomorrow morning I fly to Toronto for a few days before heading home.


I finished the blue pants this morning – cut out, sewn, and wearable without further adjustment. That was my goal! However, the twill is unforgiving – very stiff with no forgiveness, hence the “wrinkles”. My next project will be to try the jeans in a fabric with a bit of stretch – I’m guessing the fit will be a bit more smooth because the fabric will be just that bit more flexible. What I like is it looks like I have a bit of bum in them.

I didn’t work on anything else after this pair of pants was done. Instead, I tidied and packed up, then eavesdropped on the assistance Sandra offered everyone else. Lots of great sewing “tips” – about how to cut out silk using paper beneath with the pattern on top (not precut, so you’re cutting through a paper/silk/paperture sandwich – that way the silk doesn’t slither around and you get an accurate cutting.

The day ended early – everyone tired but satisfied with their sewing projects. During the day, Dan, Sandra’s husband and helpers slowly broke down the room, taking away the garment samples, sewing patterns, fabric and notions, sewing machines back to wherever everything lives. It will all be back out again in a month or so for the next group of sewers.

Mid-afternoon, Sheila and I took our last walk to Union Square. I wanted to capture a photo of an interesting jacket I’d seen in Gumps my second day in SF.

I thought the fabric interesting – it’s organza, machine over-stitched to look like knitting! Apparently the jacket is also available in the Gumps catalog – when I get home I’ll look to see if it’s available in my size.

The snap dragons in Union Square were lovely this afternoon

It’s going to be a while before we see flowers in bloom in Halifax!

Our last walk back to the hotel I took the opportunity to capture a few more interesting sights. A window of antique Jewellery

a chocolatier

Pink – a men’s clothing store with lots of pink clothing

I’m ready to be heading home.

San Francisco 8

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Hard at work today – with just a day and a half to go everybody pushed hard to get as much done as possible.

Last evening I revised the pattern I’d used for the pink jeans incorporating the various adjustments I’d made. After an early breakfast I headed to the sewing room on the 10th floor to get going on a second pair – this time light blue twill jeans. I cut out the fabric and interfacing, pressed interfacing to the matching fabric pieces (waistbands, fly front, pocket facings). Next step – serge edges of pockets, waistband facing, etc. With the prep work done I started assembling the jeans – sewed front pockets on, then did the fly front opening. I stitched in the dart down the back of each leg and added the back pocket. Before I knew it, it was time for lunch.

During the morning Sandra made sure people were comfortable with what they were working on, helping out where help was needed. Just before lunch she took a few of us on a walk, pointing out some of her favorite shopping places.

After a quick lunch I resumed sewing. As I did the first inseam I discovered I’d cut the fronts on the hem line and not the cutting line! When I finished the second inseam, the two side seams and the crotch seam, I trimmed the back of the leg and created a false hem using scraps of silk organza. Last, I added the waistband.

All that’s left to do is stitch the inner waistband and then I’ll model the pants. The length turns out to be just right!

My goal was to see if the pattern was close enough that I’d be able to cut out the jeans, sew them up, and wear them without further adjusting. It looks as if I accomplished what I set out to do.

Sheila finished her third garment – she was pleased with it.

Barb was still trying on sample garments although by this evening she was too tired to take off her clothes and she just held up the top Sandra finished yesterday.

I’ll finish the second pair of jeans tomorrow morning. I still have a cut out muslin to work on – I’ll probably have to finish it at home.

San Francisco 7

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Day 3 – we’re now past the half way mark. Sandra arrived this morning with a load of garments based in her pattern line for Vogue Patterns. Several garments from the same pattern but in very different fabrics which makes them look very different! One short coat was made from a Vietnamese bedspread:

I tried it on later – too big for me but done in a smaller size using some kind of upholstery fabric with faux suede, for example, it would work well. It would also be a vehicle for lots of interior pockets so I wouldn’t have to carry a purse.

I managed to finish the pink twill jeans I was working on – not without a good bit of taking out! The fit is interesting – they fit reasonably well, the back yoke and pocket placement gives my bum a bit of shape. 

I applied the adjustments I made – a 1/4″ drop in the waist at the sides, a 1/4″ increase in the side seam from above the knee to the hem, the added 1/4″ in the side seam at the waist to a new pattern. The biggest adjustment – a substantial dart from just below the bum to the knee that Paul suggested yesterday to get out some of that unwanted fabric beneath the bum. I’ve cut the pattern out ready to have another go – a light blue twill, this time.

The pink pair could use a good pressing but I find the professional irons here difficult to use so I’m not getting a crisp, flat seam. I’ll do that when I get home.

Went out for a bit of dinner with Sheila – on the way home we walked passed a Clivia (a plant in the Amyrillus family) in bloom. My friend Marlene has one in her greenhouse but has a difficult time getting it to flower.

So tomorrow, I’ll have one day to cut out and assemble the second pair of pants. Friday, our last day will be filled with clearing up tasks.

San Francisco 6

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Busy day! Sandra brought in lots of garments, various renditions of some of her patterns for us to see how we might improvise with fabrics and details:

Paul Gallo, a talented pattern maker and fabric draper arrived mid-morning to help with fit.

Fisheye Dart

He showed us a couple of different ways of getting rid of the excess fabric under the bum:

He showed us how to fit and shape a sleeve:

He measured several women and draped and fitted them for custom dress and blouse patterns.

He helped me with the fit of my pants by removing the excess under the bum with a large ‘fish’ dart which he suggested I turn into a princess seam. I drafted the changes to the back of the pants and quickly assembled a muslin to which he suggested further refinements. I redrafted the back pattern and cut a second muslin which I will stitch up tomorrow morning.

This evening I figured out a way to make the pink jeans work. I now have the fronts done and the backs with a dart down the middle of the back (I fit the dart into a faux seam because I had no pink fabric to redo the back from two pieces). I’ll put front and backs together tomorrow as well – at least that’s my intention!

By evening we were all weary – sewing is strenuous!

San Francisco 5

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A fascinating day. Because all of us (we are 9 women) are interested in perfecting a pair of pants, it began with Sandra showing us an array of pants – from very loose culottes to very fitted knit pants as well as jeans… pointing out how these various garments would look good on a range of shapes, and explaining which fabrics would work and what not to bother trying.

Next we were each measured. Sandra has a collection with each of the pants patterns in every possible size. So after being measured the fun began.

Sandra demonstrated how to use our measurements to mark changes on the garment pattern, showing how to change size for different parts of the pants.

I wanted to start with a pair of jeans. Sandra suggested I try a size ‘B’ – which she said wouldn’t fit across the front, but would give us a sense of the back fit. Turns out I have a ‘calf’ problem – my calves are just large enough to prevent the pant leg from falling easily along my lower leg – so when adjusting the pattern, she recommended I add a 1/2″ to each side of the back pieces from knee to hem. Next she wanted me to try a size ‘E’ (I have a large waist) for the front fit – well ‘E’ fell off my hips, even ‘D’ was large, so we settled on ‘C’.

Next I set to work tracing the pants pattern making the adjustments, cutting out the pattern, then cutting the pink twill (pre-washed) fabric I had brought with me.

I have much of the prep work done now, and will begin sewing the pants tomorrow.

It was like that with everyone – each gal choosing a style of pants to work on, then trying on several pairs in different sizes – you can imagine the laughter as we unrobed over and over again and paraded in pants either too large or too small in order to determine the adjustments needed to establish a personalized fit.

Our work room was one busy place:

Tomorrow should see several pairs of pants completed.