I’ve been teaching a class on constructing a Jean Jacket (V1036 – Sandra Betzina’s Today’s Fit – Out of Print Pattern, too bad!). I’ve come across a number of items that are helpful:
- Armani Jackets: The Inside Story – an article from Threads Magazine deconstructing an Armani Jacket. Lots of useful ideas here for making a jacket. The article has information on sleeve headers, interfacings, …
- Hidden Zippered Pockets: The Jean Jacket has two shallow outside pockets which aren’t much use for anything but carrying a Kleenex. In my jackets I’ve inserted hidden zippered pockets between the front facing/side front lining panel which are large, and secure, enough to carry some ID, a credit card, even keys. My instructions are based on Kenneth King’s process described in Cool Couture. I’ve added a zipper to the hidden pocket.
- Sleeve Header: These are Kenneth King’s instructions for inserting a sleeve header essential for producing a smooth sleeve/shoulder line. The above article on Armani Jackets offers another method.
- Shoulder Pads: Shoulder Pads shouldn’t be left out – they give a smooth line to the shoulder area of any jacket. The article on the Armani Jacket has some instructions for making your own. There are many different ways of constructing shoulder pads, I’ve been using this version I took from Reader’s Digest Complete Book of Sewing, 1979, pp. 376-277.
- Hong Kong Seam Finish – In the Jean Jacket the sleeve cuff is on the inside of the sleeve and is used to enclose the sleeve and lining together at the bottom of the sleeve. In order to get a nice finish on the inner edge of the cuff I used a Hong Kong Seam Finish – a bound edge that is very easy to hem to the lining so that edge barely shows. I used the lining fabric to create the Hong Kong Seam Finish.
Here are more useful links for sewing techniques used in constructing a jacket:
Richard The Thread (this is the only source I could find for ice wool/woven lambswool for sleeve headers – by far the best material for this job – expensive, but it shapes wonderfully well and a yard will last 30 years!)