Interesting Stuff

Sewing/Quilting Tools

Posted by

0

I taught a class yesterday at Sew With Vision on “Basic Alterations” – taking clothing in at the waist, under the arms; shortening pant/jeans legs, adjusting straps, etc. I wanted the two gals to understand there’s not a lot you can do to make a RTW (ready to wear) garment bigger; however, you can make adjustments to make something smaller.

For example, my high-belly measurement is much larger than it was ten years ago (related to my age and the meds I take). Not much I can do about dropping the weight from that location. So when I was buying a vest for fall wear, I bought 1XL to fit my belly, which meant it was too big around the hips, and the armholes needed adjusting. I could have done some complex taking apart, but instead, I just took darts in the shoulder seams (and hand stitched the dart to the lining so it laid flat); I did the same at the hips – a dart in the side seam from waist to hem by machine, then hand stitched the dart down. Now the vest fits decently and looks fine.

The one enlargement adjustment I do to make something bigger is to add elastic gussets to the waist of pants when the waist just gets too tight (my hips and thighs have stayed the same size for more than 20 years!). [I’ve previously described how I add elastic gussets to pants: https://jmncreativeendeavours.ca/2018/04/02/elastic-inserts/]

Back to the class – while the gals were working on small adjustments to garments for themselves and their children, it became obvious they had a few tools. Because I wasn’t expecting to do any sewing myself, I’d neglected to bring my sewing kit with me (https://jmncreativeendeavours.ca/2017/12/12/sewing-tools-organizer-finished/). We had to hunt through the shop’s tool collection (of dull very well used tools) to find what we needed. I told the gals I’d make them up a list of necessary sewing tools.

I’ve previously described five essential quilting tools I have at each sewing machine (https://jmncreativeendeavours.ca/2019/01/30/my-5-essential-quilting-tools/).

5 Essential Sewing/Quilting Tools
  • A Seam clipper/ripper
  • Self-threading needles (for embedding quilting thread ends)
  • Sharp 4 1/2″ embroidery scissors
  • Precision 3″ tweezers
  • Frixion Erasable Pen

But I use a lot more tools regularly.

Essential Sewing/Quilting Tools

I’ve laid out my tools, clustering those in the same category.

  • Measuring Tools
    • Rotary Cutting Ruler 6″ x 24″ – a good first measuring cutting tool
    • A measuring tape with both metric and inches on both sides
    • A metal 15″ ruler with both metric and inches
    • A slide ruler with notches for measuring and marking short distances
    • A small plastic ruler for checking short measurements (metric and inches)
  • Cutting Tools (these are going to seem expensive, they are, but expect to pay a lot more than you anticipate to get good sharp tools – I like KAI scissors – they feel good in the hand, they’re sharp and bit less costly than some other good brands)
    • 8″ shears – for cutting out garment patterns (I use a rotary cutter for cutting out patterns but there are curves that sometimes call out for shears)
    • 4 1/2″ embroidery scissors – I use these for snipping and cutting small pieces
    • 3 1/2″ precision embroidery scissors for removing stitches and close cutting
    • A sharp seam ripper (I change them as soon as they feel dull; I buy them in quantity to have plenty on hand and within easy reach)
    • A Seam Ripper Clipper (in photo above)
    • A 45mm rotary cutter with a supply of spare blades always on hand (I order in bulk online)
    • A Self-healing Cutting Mat – I recommend starting with a 24″ x 36″ mat (I have a 3′ x 6′ mat that covers my entire cutting table – expensive but useful)
    • Rotary Cutting Rulers and Templates – start with a 6″ x 24″ ruler
    • A Shape Cut Template/Ruler – this makes cutting strips of fabric very easy
Shape Cut Ruler
  • Marking Tools
    • Heat Erasable marking pens (Frixion are the most common, but I’ve bought acceptable ones in sets online)
    • Clover Chaco Liner – makes a fine chalk line (can purchase refills)
    • Chakoner – a heart-shaped chalk line drawing tool
    • A Fons and Porter or Bohin mechanical pencil with white lead (I have other colours, too, but I use the Frixion pens for marking on light fabrics and the chalk liners or pencil for marking on dark)
    • Post it notes, small and larger – I use them to identify cut fabric for both sewing and quilting
    • Masking Tape – I mark fronts and backs of garment pieces, for example, so I know what is what
    • Fine Sharpie Permanent Marker – another tool I keep at each sewing machine
    • A .7mm lead mechanical pencil (with .7mm HB lead) – perfect for pattern drafting on paper
    • Medical Exam Table Paper 18″x125′ ideal for tracing garment pattern pieces
  • Bobbins and Bobbin Holder
    • A supply of empty bobbins for each different sewing machine – each colour thread needs its own bobbin! You always want an empty bobbin around and each machine may take a different size bobbin (even from the same company)
    • A bobbin holder or box to keep bobbins in order and easily accessible and storable
  • Thread – there’s no point in sewing with cheap thread! Your machine won’t like it and the garment or quilt won’t like it either! I suggest
    • Aurifil 50wt cotton thread (variegated in two shades of grey for quilt piecing) – this is a lovely, strong, low lint thread, although expensive
    • Wonderful 50 weight cotton thread – a bit heavier than Aurifil but I use it for quilting a lot
    • Gutterman polyester thread (50wt)
    • Mettler polyester thread (50wt)
    • Coats and Clark polyester thread (50wt) – this is my least favourite but do use it to match with fabric when I have to
  • Other Useful Tools
    • A brush for cleaning lint from the sewing machine
    • A “HumpJumper/Seam Jumper” multi-purpose tool (the tool I have for lifting the presser foot for thick fabric also has a small hole for inserting a new machine needle – handy
    • A fine crochet hook for pulling threads hidden beneath quilt top or bringing pulled threads to the back of a knit garment
    • A Snag Repair Tool (Snag Nab-it) to bring pulled thread to back of knit fabric
    • A Large Safety Pin – for pulling elastic or ribbon through channels in garment or other sewing construction
    • A roller of sticky tape – great for picking up threads on your ironing board or fabric
    • Fray Check fabric glue
    • Glass Head straight pins (I like 1 1/16″ length – I find shorter ones harder to handle).You want glass heads because the iron won’t melt them! You want bead heads because they’re much easier to pick up
    • 1″ Curved Safety Pins for holding a quilt sandwich together (these small pins are a good size – the larger ones are awkward to sew around when quilting)
    • Washers – the largest you can find in the hardware store – great for holding paper patterns on fabric – much better than pinning – you need at least 6 (8 is better to have on hand; they’re inexpensive)
    • In addition to the feet that come with your machine, you will want extra feet for different jobs – you can find sets online that come with both a low-shank and high-shank adaptors (the set I have from Love/Sew works on both my old Singer Featherweight and my Brother Quilter)
    • NEEDLES – you need lots of spare needles – you need a fresh needle every time you start a new project (when I’m quilting, I change needles every 30,000-40,000 stitches – in other words, I change my needle two to three times during the quilting process). I buy needles in bulk – in boxes of 100 – for the needles I use most: Universal 80, Embroidery 75, Quilting 75. I also use Top-Stitching 90, and various Stretch/Ballpoint needles, Twin Needle 75 4mm & 6mm, also it’s useful to have Denim /Jeans needles 90 for working with denim. Schmetz and Inspira (as well as Klasse) are all sturdy needles which come in many sizes and for all fabric types [https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart?srsltid=AfmBOopLOpsA-oGFmbcXGBllCANtjbRxzSIvBejuXQKS0Bgcuf11qDSv]
      Just remember: dull needles can ruin your project, and there’s nothing worse than breaking a needle and not having a new needle on hand
    • A pin holder with a magnetic mouth used for storing discarded needles and bent pins – you can also use a large pill container with a lid, even a mason jar – something to collect used sharps
    • A magnetic pin holder
Magnetic Pin Holder
Sewing Machine Needles
  • Ironing Board and Iron – if possible keep your ironing board always set up – makes it much easier to just get a project going. You want a good pad and cover – I have a felted wool padding and I use a heavy twill unbleached cotton to make my table cover – I make a new cover every two years or so
  • A sewing table at the right height for your body (I had mine made for me – lower than a standard table height because I’m short and my upper arm measurement is somewhat long) – a dedicated sewing table means you can keep your machine set up and ready to go.
  • An adjustable stool – I have what’s called a Saddle Seat that I can adjust to the perfect height to keep my shoulders down and relaxed when I’m sewing (I actually have two of them which I move around as I need them). Even though they don’t have a back support, the seat forces you to sit with your knees below your hips which puts the lower back in a good position for extended working (although if you’re quilting or making a garment from scratch, you’re pressing as you go which gets you standing and moving to and from the ironing board a lot).
  • A Cutting Table at a comfortable working height – I created mine from a teak dining room table on a double set of wood bed lifts – makes it the perfect height for me
My Sewing Studio
  • Shelves and drawers and containers for storing fabric, notions, zippers, thread, patterns, tools
  • Trash cans – one at each sewing station
  • Good lighting

I don’t have a vote

Posted by

4

At the top of my email this morning was the daily offering from Steve Brodner – a shocker: https://substack.com/home/post/p-147061422?source=queue

“Christians, get out and vote! Just this time! You won’t have to do it anymore. Four more years, you know what? It will be fixed, it will be fine. You won’t have to vote anymore, my beautiful Christians. I love you, Christians. You got to get out and vote. In four years, you don’t have to vote again. We’ll have it fixed so good, you don’t have to vote.” [trump speaking in Florida 7/26/2024]

I searched “Did trump actually say christians get out and vote…” – just to confirm he’d said it as Brodner quoted. It wasn’t that I didn’t believe Brodner, I was interested in finding out more about the context and whether any of the major news outlets would bother to report the comment. 

I definitely found headlines, so trump’s rantings are garnering some attention. They need a lot more attention. Given the overall context of his “speeches” I’m taking the words at face value – vote him into office and that’s the end of meaningful presidential elections. I suppose he could be saying that he’ll have changed the political reality to such an extent that even if there were to be elections whether Christians vote or not won’t matter because any election would simply be pro forma. 

I’m on the sidelines in this US election. I don’t have a vote. I’m Canadian. I’m fascinated with the way the election has changed since last Sunday when Biden announced he was passing the torch to Kamala Harris. Energy was palpable almost immediately. I am hoping she can maintain and grow support for her campaign because trump winning the election would be horrific. At least that’s how I see it from my vantage point in Nova Scotia, Canada. 

Not only would a trump win be dreadful for the US, it would change lives in Canada in some expected and many unexpected ways. The economic impact would be felt here instantly. But more egregious would be the way in which our political conversation would change – becoming even more partisan, more vicious, more divisive on all sides. We don’t need that.

So I watch the campaign with more than a little concern. I read trump’s words as invoking a dictatorship – support me this time and that’ll be the end of it – I’ll make sure you’ll never need to vote again.

I’m hoping Harris can build and sustain momentum – the US needs her to win. The rest of the world needs her to win.

Go Kamala, go girl! 

But I don’t have a vote….

[PS: If you don’t know much about it check out Project 2025 – it’s the GOP/Trump blueprint for a trump presidency – the document itself is 900 pages long, but this synopsis will fill you in.]

“Granddaughters”

Posted by

5

Granddaughters (AI Generated)

It began a year and a half ago. A phone call from my sister Donna wondering whether I knew anybody who could help a new immigrant with English. I don’t know whether that was a subtle way of trying to draw me into her sponsorship work with new immigrants fleeing terror at home, or a request for help to find someone to teach English to adults. I said I could help out.

I’d spent my professional life teaching teachers about literacy – helping them understand their own strategies, as well as encouraging them to explore ways of engaging their students so they in turn could discover the skills and pleasures of reading and writing proficiently. While I had no training in English as a second language, I understand first language learning and how learners (of all ages) become adept speakers / listeners / readers / writers.

I met Basira the week she and her family (her husband and three young sons) arrived here in Halifax. Ahmad spoke understandable English but Basira understood almost none. The danger for her, and many immigrant women, is that she’d not learn English well enough to live in the community successfully and independently. As a young woman with children she needed to become an English speaker as quickly as possible.

I agreed to spend time with her each week, expecting she’d soon be enrolled in English classes through ISANS (Immigrant Services Association of Nova Scotia). Turns out that proved difficult. There had been a recent influx of immigrants from countries like Syria, Iran, Afghanistan, Ukraine, and there was a severe shortage of tutors. Basira went on the waiting list and she and I carried on.

I arrived at her apartment one morning each week and we’d spend time engaged in conversation. That was a challenge for both of us. Armed with translators on our phones, I’d translate English into Persian, Basira did the reverse. What helped was she knew the English alphabet. The family had lived in Turkey for three years before being accepted in Canada. The Turkish alphabet is close to English so she’d become accustomed to the phonetic correspondences. It turned out she also understood a bit of English. In addition, she’d become reasonably independent in Turkish during the time she spent there; she wasn’t afraid to tackle another new language.

Along with conversation, I brough along library books intended for very young children – few words but lots of supportive illustration. I had two aims: to offer vocabulary and English sentence structure without formally teaching either. To select appropriate books took quite a bit of time at my local library every couple of weeks – I’d read 10 books for every one I selected. It wasn’t long before Basira was needing books with longer stories, broader vocabulary and more complex sentence structure. (During this time, she gave birth to her fourth son – a new Canadian.)

I had never married; I had no children. I have a close relationship with my sister Barb’s daughter and son and their children. Now, as I grew to know her, Basira was beginning to feel like part of my family – like a granddaughter.

I’d been working with Basira for eight months when Shukria, her husband and infant son arrived in Halifax. They too needed support. Jawad spoke some English; Shukria spoke none. Same deal – I visited once a week to spend time with each of them, engaging in conversation and reading children’s books. Back to the library – simple children’s books this time for Shukria, more informative ones for Jawad.

We enjoyed our weekly time together. Occasionally they’d invite me to join them for an evening meal. I helped out in whatever other ways I could. Slowly but surely they, too, began to feel like family – Shukria like a granddaughter.

Both Basira and Shukria began formal English lessons at ISANS six months ago; I continue to spend time every week with each of them. Time I enjoy and which still seems to be useful for them.

A couple of weeks ago, I added another “granddaughter.” My local sewing shop got in touch to find out whether I might be interested in helping a young woman from India make an A-line dress. Sure, I could make time. That’s how Neha has come into my life.

She’s from northern India, speaks fluent English. Our relationship is built around sewing. She’s sharp, dexterous, funny, asks terrific questions. Last week we almost finished the first of what will definitely become a series of dresses.

Printed Cotton Kurta Set With Dupatta 

It turns out it’s not an A-line dress she wants to make, but what she calls a “suit” – the tunic-like top worn over pants that women from northern India wear. She wants it with a full skirt that will flare when she’s dancing!

This coming week we’ll put the finishing touches to this first dress and begin working on the second “muslin” that she’s already cut out. When that one is done, we’ll make another in better fabric, using what we’ve learned from the two muslin’s we’ve constructed.

So, now I seem to have three “granddaughters”. Wonderful, much younger women who enrich my life in ways I’d never have imagined a year and a half ago! I’m getting to watch them figure out how to live in Canada; I’m watching their children, week-by-week grow and develop. The babies have both become toddlers – walking, running. Their babbling is in Persian so I can’t tell whether we’re getting meaningful speech or not, although I suspect a good deal of Arvin’s chatter contains some actual words. I get to pass on the sewing information gleaned from a lifetime of quilting and garment-making to someone eager to learn how to sew.

These “granddaughters” enrich my life, keeping me in close contact with young people so I, in turn, get to learn how women their age view this complicated world in which we are now living. Their friendship is a wonderful gift that is keeping me young.

“Just Grow Up!”

Posted by

1

Nobody would have guessed Goldie would be the last one standing, but she is.

Goldie, one of my mother’s younger sisters,  turned 100 this past February, having outlived her eight siblings. She’s my last surviving aunt or uncle in both my mother’s and father’s families. 

She’s aware of what’s going on around her, not quite so mobile anymore, but definitely still going strong; Goldie’s planning on reaching 108 (the age of the oldest resident in her retirement building). Who knows, she might get there. After all, with much determination and effort, she managed to regain her speech following a stroke two years ago. She has pushed herself to walk again after a fall that broke her hip a year ago. Yes, she uses a walker, but she gets around the building under her own steam.

I was in Toronto a couple of weeks ago, visiting family. I try to make at least one trip a year to show my face so the grandnephews have a person to associate with my name. I always make a point of visiting Aunt Goldie. After all, there may not be a next visit. 

This time my sister and I arranged to visit just after Goldie’s lunchtime. We had a lovely time catching up—what was going on in my life, what was happening in hers, her children’s, grandchildren’s, and great-grandchildren’s.

Goldie has lived in this community for at least a decade. She made the decision to move from independent living in her condo to assisted living when her son-in-law retired, and he and her daughter were now planning to spend their winters in the warmth of California. With Goldie nearing 90, they were worried about not being around to support her. Goldie made the generous decision to move to assisted living so they could enjoy their retirement freedom without being anxious about her.

The community she moved into is pleasant, with attentive staff and many residents who are still active and social. Goldie decided to make the most of the situation and reached out to other residents. Her strategy paid off. People accepted her company and conversation. Staff pop into her room to check on how she’s doing, ask if can they do anything for her, and chitchat about their families and ask about hers. Over time, Goldie has built a community for herself.

One of the other residents who had a room next to Goldie was actually a neighbour who had lived across the street from her in Halifax. Marie had moved to Toronto, as had Goldie, to be near children and grandchildren. They spent time together, enjoying one another’s company. A couple of months ago, Marie died. Goldie missed her but stoically moved on. Shorty after Marie died, another former neighbour from Halifax arrived in the community. Emma (around 95) is not adjusting well to the transition from independent to supported living; she is cranky, miserable, in tears a good deal of the time.

Goldie has visited Emma often but told us she is running out of patience with her. 

“In fact, yesterday I told her to grow up! Life changes! You have to be flexible. Move on. If you give this place a chance, you can make a life for yourself here. Just grow up!” 

And with that, Goldie walked out of Emma’s room. The image of Goldie at 100 telling Emma at 95 to “grow up!” was just too funny; we burst out laughing.

At 81, I think about the wisdom of Goldie’s approach to living. If you’re cheerful and friendly with people, they’re happy spending time with you, sharing what’s going on in their lives, interested in yours. If you’re miserable, wishing you were elsewhere, closed off, people stay away. It’s a choice we all have to make, not just when we’re old, but throughout our lives.

In our older years, choosing to be open to new people becomes more important, if difficult. As people in our circle of friends move away or die, we need to actively seek out new people (both young and old) with whom to spend time. Critical to making new friends is being open, cheerful, and interested. 

No point in trying to hold on to the past, we all have to constantly “just grow up!”

Aunt Goldie

Andrea’s Morning Latte

Posted by

0

Andrea knows I’m into “faces”. She’s always on the lookout for new ones. Yesterday I got this note with a photo: “My morning latte – had to send it along to start your day! lol“

Morning Latte

Says it all! Have a good day! Makes me smile.

Maybe Not Finished But Wearable…

Posted by

4

Sweater With Visible Mending

You certainly can see the wear pattern on the sweater – worse on the back of the right sleeve and right front. A bit more concentrated just below the boob on the left front.

Yesterday, I wore it to show a friend; she suggested a bit more darning on one side closer to the shoulder. But I think I’m leaving this where it is, for now.

A One-of-a-kind Garment!

Other wear spots aren’t jumping out at me with the white turtleneck shirt beneath. The knitting in the sweater isn’t looking obviously threadbare anywhere else.

I think this job has been a success. I averted holes, save the garment from the garbage bin, and have myself a new interesting wearable sweater.

Jeddore Variety

Posted by

1

New Socks

On November 19, a friend and I did the annual Eastern Shore Annual Seaside Christmas trail – starting with a visit to Harbour Breezes Day Lilies where I picked up some delicious home made cranberry/orange compote. We visited a bunch of craft shops but our best stop was Jeddore Variety just before you get to Jeddore (from Halifax). One of my friends in the building who lived in Jeddore for many years raves about the store; she always comes back from shopping there with lots of goodies.

I made some amazing finds there – my best buy was sock yarn for $13.99! I bought two balls, including this one. Should have bought more! Lots of interesting gadgets and arts and crafts supplies. Prices were unbelievably low for quality goods! Definitely worth a trip of its own.

I liked how this pair turned out. A good colour combination, too.

On to the next pair – probably the same pattern in greys and rose shades. Should be satisfying to make. Maybe I’ll even keep them – the colours fit with my wardrobe.

Holiday Greetings, etc.

Posted by

8

A bit late for “Merry Christmas” but still in time to extend best wishes for 2024!

May the coming year find you contented, well, and carrying on!

Take life day by day! (That’s all any of us has.) Enjoy each day. Take pleasure from the small things that happen. An unexpected conversation, something nice to eat, finishing a particularly challenging puzzle, being able to do something for someone else, a pleasantry in the elevator, a good workout at the pool, a leisurely  walk, the sunshine! 

Yesterday, for me, it was finishing the quilt I’ve been working on for weeks, a good Christmas dinner with friends down the hall, and a bit of texting with a distant friend I haven’t been in touch with for a while. 

May you feel like “Maggie Muggans” – “don’t know what will happen tomorrow!”

You’ve made it through 2023. All the best in the coming year.

Judith

Unwashed Dishes!

(They got dealt with before I went to bed!)

Catchup

Posted by

9

It’s days since I posted anything but I’ve been chugging along as always.

Danish Paper Stars

Danish Paper Stars – it’s become a seasonal tradition to make stars to share with neighbours and friends. I’ve made a total of close to 60 this year. I started with about 45 – which I distributed the other evening (one star per apartment). When I got home I realized I didn’t have enough left for friends so last evening I made another 15! That’s it for stars this year. It takes me about 8 minutes to make a star. [The website I found a couple of years ago describing how to make the stars is still functioning so click here if you want to try your hand at making a few!] [If that link doesn’t work try here.]

The Quilt Top – it’s been a chore but I finally managed to piece the panel together. I rummaged through my stash looking for fabrics to border it with. I came up with something.

Quilt Panel
With Border Fabrics

The challenge with the burgundy “cork” fabric is that it’s directional so I’ll have to consider how to use it on all four sides – it will require some piecing, I think. Deciding to include a thin strip of the backing fabric ties the whole thing together. It don’t see any appliqué that will enhance this panel which is already way too busy!

Can’t say I’m ecstatic about this creative effort – the background fabric [Free Spirit: Tim Holtz, Eclectic Elements, Abandoned, Rusted Patina PWTH126] turned out to be much busier than I anticipated. I loved the colour combinations, but cutting it up just accentuated the “busy-ness” and adding the solids as I did made the whole panel out of control. That’s the challenge of improvising – it doesn’t always work out as you’ve imagined it.

The Rusted Patina fabric should have been used as very large pieces which is what I’m going to do on the back. I managed to purchase enough from a number of online sources to do that. I want to see what making a small strip through the dominant backing fabric will do. In any case I want to use up what I have. I don’t intend doing anything more with it. Lesson learned!

I just keep carrying on.

If you have time I recommend Barb Emodi’s recent Substack piece: Comes With The Territory.