The Thing About Pants

The thing about making pants is the fit changes over a six month period – my weight distributes just a bit differently so the pattern that worked last year won’t quite fit now even though my weight hasn’t changed much.

I bought some white linen and a medium weight denim several weeks ago. I decided I had to get those white pants done because it’s almost August and I have nowhere to store the fabric till next spring!

Finished pants draped over a chair

I didn’t want to make another pair of pull-on pants. I wanted a fly front which is actually a lot easier to get into. I pulled out my Sandra Betzina jeans pattern Vogue 7608 which I’ve been using since 2015.

My challenge is I have a very flat bum, skinny thighs but a full belly which makes my waist measurement close to my hip measurement. I last used the pattern in May 2019 (the date I noted on the draft) so I wasn’t prepared to trust the sizing of my draft – I figured I should at least lay it against my pull-on pants pattern (most recently used in Feb 2022) and was surprised how close the two actually were. Then I did what I needed to do – I took my body measurements yet again: waist, high belly, hip (at fullest), thigh, and checked them against the pattern. On this pattern I’m a size A through the bum in the back but I need a C from hip to waist. In the front I’m a C from crotch to waist. I checked the grading on my draft against the original pattern to make sure I was close to a working size.

I intended making the dart adjustment in the pants back but I needed to make sure I was getting it centered so I balanced the pattern, front and back, then added the dart to the centre back. This pattern has a back yoke (no waistband), with a waistband in the front. The smart thing was to start by working “Top Down/Centre Out“. I cut out the 2 yoke pieces, the two front waistband pieces, sewed them together, then tried it on. The fit wasn’t bad, a reasonable amount of overlap in the front, so I decided to go ahead and cut the fabric.

I was using my white linen fabric to make a muslin – if the finished garment fit I’m ahead of the game, but as usual, I was prepared to throw out the whole effort if it didn’t work.

I did all the prep work – fused interfacing where it was needed: back pocket facing, front pocket facing, waistband, yoke, both sides of the fly. I serged edges where I wanted to prevent fraying. I made up the pockets, added them to the front (I simplify the pockets by adding them to the top, rather than inserting them from behind the fronts). Now here’s where I deviated from Top Down/Centre Out construction. If this was going to be a wearable garment, I needed to set up the fly front. So I went ahead and put in the zipper, added the fly facing and top stitched the fly in place (Here are instructions for this simple fly front) (Here’s a link to a video.) With the fly completed I added each front waistband piece.

With the front done, I worked on the backs. I sewed the yoke to each back side, then sewed the back dart in each back piece, serged it (1/4″ seam allowance). Added the back pockets to each side. Now I returned to the Top Down/Centre Out technique – I sewed inner leg seams (no serging), sewed the outer leg seams (no serging), stitched the crotch seam( no serging), then tried on the pants. I could see I wanted to take in the side seams 1/2″, I wanted to remove about 1/2″ from the back crotch inner leg to flatten the bum a bit more, I also wanted to bring the back dart higher so it would finish under the pocket, finally take in the centre back 3/8″ at the waist.

I made those adjustments (marked them on my pattern draft), then I serged the seams. Tried on the pants again. I was satisfied with the fit, so I added the waistband and yoke facings (having matched them to the waistband and yoke on the pants), top stitched around those elements on the right side of the garment. I marked the inseam (27″), folded and pressed the hem, then finished the hems with a cover stitch. Last I added a button hole on the front waist tab, and a button and tried the pants on again. Overall the fit was good – but the pants were too long.

I took out the hem, shortened the legs by 1/2″. Cover stitched again – still a smidge too long. I shortened them another 1/2″.

The front fit is close but the added length interferes with how the legs fall – this was before I shortened, and reshortened the pants. The back is close – I just need to raise the dart to remove the slight bit of fullness under my bum. I’m not going to do that with these pants, by the time I’ve sat in the linen for a few minutes the back will be stretched out – I marked that adjustment on the pattern for the denim which I will make next.

All in all, after shortening the legs, I have a pair of wearable pants. A good couple of days effort.

Silly Socks

Silly Socks (Happy Clown 09)

These were fun socks to knit! I bought the yarn from Hobbii in Denmark a couple of months ago. I’ve purchased yarn from them for a couple of years and found it a nice weight and texture. The patterns have for the most part turned out interesting socks. These were the brightest I’ve ever knit!

The only challenge was the ball of yarn had some knots where during the winding process the yarn broke and it was joined manually – distorting the pattern. I ran into both knots while knitting the first sock. The first happened between the green and blue transition – I had to unwind quite a bit of yarn to find an approximate location for a match. The second knot happened just after the heel where the solid yellow was abruptly ended and joined to green. At that point I cut out the knot, threaded one yarn into the other knit 5 stitches, trimmed excess yarn and carried on.

I had to be careful on the second sock to match the location when I got past the heel. I was pretty successful making an approximate match – my two socks turned out the same! I didn’t encounter any further knots, thank goodness. It was also a good decision to knit the cuff in yellow (I didn’t know at that point I’d lose most of the yellow solid section). It gives a colour balance to the finished sock.

Purple Placemats

Completed Placemats

I completed the purple placemats yesterday. I’d set them up with batting and backing when I finished the bright ones, but I didn’t get around to sewing them together, turning them right side out, and stitching in the ditch along the seam lines. It’s not like I have use for them – I do so little entertaining these days where I might use new placements on my glass table. These have gone in the drawer along with the other two sets of “Stack ‘n Whack” placemats I now have on hand. I’ve made them to display in Sew With Vision to advertise a class in the fall. Once that’s done, they will likely be given as gifts.

Place Mats – First Set Finished

Finished Set of Placemats

This morning I decided to finish the two sets of placemats – adding batting and backing, and quilting them. I was lucky – I found this multicolour batik in one of my drawers and there was enough to back all four placemats (actually I did have to fudge a bit – I discovered I’d cut a corner from one end of the fabric for some other project and had to patch it on one placemat! Nobody is ever going to notice).

I realized when I began stitching in the ditch I could “chain piece” the seam by following one placemat after the other without cutting the thread between. The sewing went fast that way. Must remember to do it on the second set which are set to assemble!

I still think these are particularly “loud” although my sister assures me they’re just fine. For sure, they will be noticed in the shop when I take them to put them on display. Maybe people will sign up for the class. Never know.

Socks

Hobbii Silly Socks (Circus Princess 04)

Finished this pair yesterday while watching Wimbledon action – Alcaraz vs Jarry. Not Alcaraz’s best play – his first serve wasn’t working well so he was playing a defensive tennis against a competent opponent.

The socks are rather sedate – but I liked the soft colours and enjoyed working with them which is why I chose the soft pink as the complement colour.

Fuchsia Silk Shirt

This project started when I was looking for a light natural silk tussah to use as background fabric for the wall art pieces back in March/April. I came across this beautiful fuchsia silk tussah at Britex in San Francisco. It’s a wonderful store, BTW. When in San Francisco I spent a lot of time there.

Fuchsia Silk Tussah

I tried resisting it, but in the end I ordered two yards, knowing when it arrived I was going to make a shirt/jacket from it. Turns out I had some dupioni silk in precisely the same shade which I planned to use for facing the yoke, collar, under collar and cuffs! Meant to be.

The fabric arrived beginning of May. I cut out the shirt June 12, then went off to Toronto on the 16th for five days for a family visit. I began working on the shirt when I returned. I wasn’t able to sit down and work on it straight for the 5-6 hours it takes to sew a shirt – I distributed the work over several days. Just added the last four buttonholes and the buttons this afternoon.

Finished Shirt

This is the basic “Easy Shirt” from Janet Pray – the one I’ve made a gazillion times. It’s a man’s shirt so I have to remember to reverse the fronts. The medium size shirts in my closet are starting to be “snug” so I opted to make the shirt in large. When I was in San Francisco in 2017 at Sandra Betzina’s last sewing workshop she recommended a small adjustment to the pattern – she advised adding 3/8″ to the bottom of the yoke, 3/8″ to the top of the back, to give me a bit of ease over my rounded back. It worked beautifully – the back of the shirt falls perfectly straight.

Since I plan to wear the garment as a light jacket (rather than a shirt) I was able to fudge the buttons – instead of 6-7 of the on the front, I used 5 (there were just 9 of these small, metal, “flower” buttons at Fabricville when I went shopping); I needed two each for the sleeves leaving 5 for the front – I eliminated the top two buttons.

Fuchsia Pink Shirt

The shirt is the tiniest bit on the large size – what I really ought to do is make a size half way between medium and large. For a jacket the loose fit will be fine. I have to say, I love the colour! Maybe now is the time to bring out the two gorgeous Liberty cotton prints I bought at Britex (one in 2015, the other in 2017) and make those shirts!

KnitPicks & Hobbii Silly Socks

Made With KnitPicks Yarn

A while back I placed an order with KnitPicks for three/four skeins of sock yarn (I can’t now remember how many I bought). This is the second pair finished (the other is in the sock stash). The repeat is the length of the leg (just about) – longer than most other sock yarns. You end up with an extended interesting pattern. I still am adding contrast for cuff/heel/toe. I prefer how adding a solid brings out the colours in the yarn.

I had finished these socks a couple of weeks ago, taken them to show at our Friday afternoon knitting group. One of the gals was working on some rather bland socks. I pulled up the Hobbii Yarn Website / Sock Yarns to show her some colourful alternatives. Found the “Silly Socks” yarn on sale! While we were sitting there I ordered four balls/skeins of the yarn.

Hobbii Yarn (Denmark)

I’m currently working on the second sock on the first of those balls/skeins and liking the resulting sock. The yarn is a great sock weight and soft although it’s the conventional superwash of 75% wool and 25% polyamide. It knits up well and feels nice in the hand. Another couple of evenings and the pair will be done.

I bought one skein of the rainbow yarn shown in the photo – they should be fun to knit up – although I’m not sure what solid I’ll add to it. Maybe I’ll even keep the resulting socks.

Still knitting every evening in front of the TV!

Other Mothers

Watch this video of a mother raccoon teaching her baby to climb – it has lots to say about how we might think about learning and teaching, ourselves!

Watch the mother problem solve, watch the kit figure out how to climb the tree.

Mother Raccoon can’t actually “teach” the kit to climb – she supports the young one, she positions and repositions her, supporting the kit’s efforts so the young one can figure out she has to use her claws to hang on. Mother’s persistent, she doesn’t give up; the kit finally gets the hang of it and starts climbing the tree on her own.

It’s how my grandmother taught me to make bagels, and how to knit, when I was very young. I was invited into her activity, shown how to participate. I learned to watch and try myself, figuring out what was essential in the process, what I could ignore.

Making bagels, I learned what the dough should feel like when it had been kneaded enough, how to shape the bagels by rolling a small piece of dough into a “snake”, picking up one end, rotating my hand, bringing the other end to the first, then rolling my hand to make the join. I learned how to tell when the bagels were ready to come out of the pot of boiling sugar water, what they look like when they’re baked enough. I don’t recall her teaching me these things directly, but I certainly learned them.

Knitting, the same thing – in the end I became a right hand knitter (my grandmother knitted “european” – left-handed) but the principles of how to cast on stitches, how to hold the needles, how to bring the yarn around the needle push it through a stitch and bring it back through to form a new stitch, I learned from her. After I developed carpel tunnel syndrome in my right hand, I actually switched to knitting as my grandmother did, with my left hand – it wasn’t difficult – I’d learned the technique by watching how she’d done it. I came to understand that our relationship had always been a mentoring one – I was invited to participate in her world and to learn from her many important life skills!

Interesting, I don’t remember my mother engaging with me in this way. She never shared her natural ability to play piano (which I always envied). I took piano lessons but I never learned to improvise the way my mother could. I didn’t learn to sew from her. I taught myself to cook. She aborted my passion for ballet when she refused to let me replace lost ballet shoes. I don’t remember her ever having an encouraging word for any challenge I took on.

I do remember her allowing me to read whatever novel she was reading (which transitioned me from children’s books to adult literature at an early age). The first grown-up novel I remember was “Peyton Place” – The “novel tells the story of three women who are forced to come to terms with their identity, both as women and as sexual beings, in a small, conservative, gossipy town. Metalious (the author) included recurring themes of hypocrisy, social inequities and class privilege in a tale that also includes incest, abortion, adultery, lust and murder.” (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peyton_Place_(novel))

At eleven I certainly didn’t understand a lot about what took place in the novel but I knew there was something illicit about this book which my mother and my aunts whispered and giggled about. My mother and I never talked about the book. She never talked about any of the books we actually both read over the years. She went to the library; I read the books after she finished them.

Consequently, I looked for other women to help me become an adult – my Aunt Helen (who lived in London, ON), Mrs. Milligan (my friend Marlene’s mother), Bobby Ballentyne (my friend Marion’s mother), Ruth Marks (whom I regarded as a big sister), many others, all who shared their lives, inviting me into an adult woman’s world. I referred to them as “my other mothers”. I actively sought out mentoring when I wanted or needed to learn something new.

Today, I frequently turn to YouTube as a source of information and technique but it’s not quite the same – the two way act of sharing is absent. There is no subtle feedback letting me know whether my approximation is getting better or not. I’m pretty much on my own as a learner.

Fortunately, I have a lifetime of trusting I can tackle something new and find a way to become reasonably proficient. I attribute that to the many mentors who have shared what they were able to do and supported my explorations along the way.

The reason I reminisce about this, is an article I read recently in the New York Times: He Lives in the Double Helix of My Cells, but I Do Not Know Him (by Zach Gotlieb). Gotlieb, a child of artifical insemination who has never met his father although he discovered he has 20+ half-siblings, writes about Father’s Day. He says he “realized that I’d had fathers all along — dozens of them. There were teachers, coaches, other people’s dads, family friends, my beloved grandfather. For me, these father figures are a collage of wildly diverse personalities and perspectives giving me more fathering combined than an individual dad could possibly provide. Biology is strong, but it’s also easy. The people who father me do it for no other reason that that they choose to.

He made me remember my “other mothers” – the women who took me under their wing, shared their lives with me, encouraged me to be intrepid, audacious, undaunted, adventurous. Because of them I cultivated talents and expertise I would otherwise never have discovered and honed.

I know lots of people who resist wading into unfamiliar territory – they’ve learned to avoid the new and subsequently miss the experience of expanding their horizons. I’m guessing the absence of good mentoring either at home or school accounts for their reticence. Failure, without support to continue trying, can make it difficult to take risks.

I’m always open to tackling something unfamiliar. Recently one the Afghan immigrants I’m spending time with helping learn English was applying for a job that required a knowledge of WHMIS (what’s WHMIS? – Workplace Hazardous Materials Information System – I searched for a way to explore the training myself so I could coach Ahmad through the certification. Turns out he didn’t need the certificate right now, maybe later).

I’m always interested in learning new stuff. I’m not afraid of taking on a challenge. I learned that from the women who took an interest in me.

Gotlieb says: the word “father” has evolved for me, from a noun to a verb.”

The same is true for “mother”!

Being Prepared

Last evening, while knitting in front of the TV as I always do, bedroom window open (that’s where my TV is located), I became aware of the smell of smoke. Not sure of the wind direction – could it have been smoke from the Quebec out of control forest fires?

In any case, I thought about a couple of weeks back and the fires in my backyard – the day the Tantallon fire began I was able to see smoke from our apartment building (that night neighbours on the other side of my building could see flames above the trees); the fire was close – no serious danger that it would come closer to us here, but a very real presence none the less for many days. I had friends who had to flee that fire and the Bedford fire as well.

From CBC News – Upper Tantallon Fire

The notion of “being prepared” was something everybody locally had on their minds. What do you take with you if you have fifteen minutes to leave here quickly? How do you even get out if you have to feed into a single exiting road with hundreds (maybe thousands) of other people also trying to get to safety and traffic at a standstill?

Daphne Calhoun, my massage therapist, wrote in her recent newsletter a summation of what I was considering myself.

Pretty much my list – except for the fire extinguishers (we have hard-wired smoke detectors with a sprinkler system in the apartment building, although a fold-up fire ladder might be worth considering if I could find one six stories long) and the cats. I’d already done what Daphne was organizing – my important documents are digital, I’ve got photos of the rooms in my apartment showing what I own, my contacts list is on my phone and backed up to the cloud, my emergency medical information is on both backup hard drives.

While I didn’t actually pack a bag I knew I would grab my passport, make sure I had my iPhone case (which has my health card, driver’s licence, car insurance papers, etc.) with me. Grabbing a few changes of clothes, my medications, a couple of cosmetics, toothbrush wouldn’t take long (my suitcases are in the apartment storage space, not in the garage six floors below).

Was there anything else I’d want to take? My computer backup hard drives (both of which are the size of my iPhone) – not the computer – that can be replaced, the information on it would be useful to have even if the critical stuff is already stored in the cloud and accessible. I have a gazillion password stored in a password manager on my phone – didn’t need a paper copy. Family photos? On the backup drives. My will is in the safe deposit box at the bank with the insurance papers (and my insurance agent has that information, anyway).

Art work? If I can’t get out by car because traffic is going nowhere and I have to start walking – a small bag on wheels and a backpack is all I’m likely to manage. I thought about my impending art show in Parrsboro – if at all possible, I would have taken the large suitcase already filled with those quilts and wall art pieces. I’d certainly have packed them in the car (at least that much of my art work might have been salvaged), but the rest of the art I own (and there’s quite a bit on my walls) I’d have to abandon.

That’s about it. I was mentally prepared to walk away from everything I couldn’t easily transport on foot. If necessary, what’s important can be packed in a carry-on bag and a backpack. The rest, as George Carlin says, is “Stuff!”

On Display

I left for Truro around 4:30. The drive took just under an hour. I’d taken a friend with me – conversation always shortens the trip. We had time for coffee (and a sliver of peanutbutter cream pie – yum!) before Christene Sandeson, the person with whom I’m sharing the gallery space for July/August at NovelTea Cafe, arrived.

We got work straight away – each of us laid out the work we’d brought, tentatively placed it on the various display shelves then moved pieces around to better balance size and colour against one another and against the background walls. Didn’t take long – we were finished in less than 45 minutes.

Without discussion we intermingled our work – it just seemed to look better with Christene’s and my pieces side by each rather than trying to cluster each of us separately. We were both happy with how the final hanging looked.

We’ll meet again at the end of August when we arrive to take down the art. Perhaps we’ll make time then to have coffee or a meal together!

[These pieces are for sale – contact me: newman.judith@gmail.com for a price list]